Portrait photographers use a small set of named lighting patterns, recognised by the shape of the shadow the nose casts on the face. Each pattern gives a different feeling, from soft and glamorous to dramatic and moody. Learning them gives you a shared language with other photographers and a reliable starting point for any portrait. This lesson explains the four classic patterns, broad and short lighting, and how to choose light that flatters a face.
What is a lighting pattern?
A portrait lighting pattern is a named position of the key light, recognised by the shadows it creates on the face, especially the shadow of the nose. Moving the key light around the face, and up or down, changes the pattern. The key light was introduced in lighting setups, and the effect of light direction in front, side, back, top and low-angle light.
The four classic patterns
| Pattern | Key light position | How to recognise it | Feeling |
|---|---|---|---|
| Butterfly (Paramount) | In front of the face, high, pointing down | Small, symmetrical shadow under the nose, like a butterfly | Glamorous, clean, classic Hollywood |
| Loop | About 30–45° to the side, slightly above eye level | Small shadow of the nose falls down toward the cheek but does not touch the cheek shadow | Natural, flattering, versatile |
| Rembrandt | Further to the side (around 45–60°) and higher | Nose shadow meets the cheek shadow, leaving a small triangle of light under the far eye | Dramatic, moody, painterly |
| Split | About 90° to the side | Exactly half the face lit, half in shadow | Strong, mysterious, dramatic |
Remember:Angles are approximate; the shadows on the face are the real guide. Rembrandt lighting is named after the Dutch painter who often painted faces with that small triangle of light.
Butterfly lighting with a reflector or second light below the face is called clamshell lighting, introduced in lighting setups.
Broad and short lighting
When a face is turned slightly away from the camera, one side (the side nearer the camera) looks wider, and the other side looks narrower. Broad and short lighting describe which side is lit:
| Broad lighting | Short lighting | |
|---|---|---|
| Lit side | The side of the face turned toward the camera | The side turned away from the camera |
| Shadow side | Away from the camera | Toward the camera |
| Effect | Face looks wider | Face looks slimmer, more shaped |
| Often used for | Narrow faces | Round or wide faces; most modern portraits |
Broad and short are not separate patterns; they combine with loop, Rembrandt or split lighting.
Setting up a pattern with one light
- Place the key light in front of the face and slightly above, then move it around to the side.
- Watch the nose shadow move from under the nose (butterfly), to beside it (loop), to touching the cheek shadow (Rembrandt), to half the face (split).
- Raise or lower the light until the nose shadow points down gently, not too long or too short.
- Check the eyes: both eyes should usually have catchlights, and the shadow-side eye should not be lost in darkness.
- Add fill with a reflector or second light to control contrast, as explained in lighting ratios.
Tip:You can create all these patterns with window light too, by turning the person relative to the window, as you learned in window light.
Choosing light for the person
- Soft, large light is usually more flattering, smoothing skin texture; harder light shows character and texture.
- Loop lighting suits most faces and is a safe default.
- Short lighting slims round faces; broad lighting can widen narrow faces.
- Butterfly lighting flatters strong cheekbones; it can look flat on very round faces.
- Glasses: raise the light or tilt the glasses slightly to avoid reflections in the lenses.
These are widely used guidelines, not fixed rules. Faces differ, and the best test is to look carefully and adjust.
Common mistakes
- Light too high: dark eye sockets and no catchlights.
- Light too low: unnatural upward shadows.
- Rembrandt triangle lost: small movements of the head change the pattern; guide the person's head position.
- Ignoring the shadow side: it can go too dark without fill.
How professionals light people
Portrait photographers choose a pattern based on the person and the purpose: loop or soft butterfly for friendly corporate headshots, Rembrandt or split for dramatic character portraits. They guide the subject's head with small movements, watch the nose shadow and catchlights, and adjust fill to control mood. Above all, they make the person comfortable, because no lighting can save a tense expression.
Practical examples
A friendly business headshot
- Situation
- A company wants approachable headshots of its staff.
- What to do
- You use a large octabox for loop lighting, slightly above eye level, with a reflector for fill.
- Why it works
- Soft loop lighting is flattering on most faces and feels natural.
- Result
- Consistent, friendly headshots with gentle shape.
A portrait of an actor
- Situation
- An actor wants a dramatic character portrait.
- What to do
- You move the key light to create Rembrandt lighting on the short side of the face, with little fill.
- Why it works
- Rembrandt and short lighting add drama and shape the face strongly.
- Result
- A moody portrait with a small triangle of light under the shadow-side eye.
Key points
- Lighting patterns are recognised by the shadow of the nose.
- Butterfly: light high in front; loop: small nose shadow; Rembrandt: triangle of light; split: half the face lit.
- Broad lighting lights the side facing the camera; short lighting lights the side turned away.
- Build patterns by moving one light and watching the nose shadow and catchlights.
- Choose the pattern to suit the face and the purpose of the portrait.
Frequently asked questions
What is Rembrandt lighting?
What is loop lighting?
What is the difference between broad and short lighting?
What is the most flattering portrait lighting?
Conclusion
Portrait lighting patterns give you a reliable way to place the key light: butterfly, loop, Rembrandt and split, combined with broad or short lighting. Watch the nose shadow and catchlights, and choose the pattern that suits the face and the feeling you want. Next, you will learn how to light products and still life.
Finished reading? Track your progress through Flash and studio lighting.